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How do you make perfume from flowers at home?

By Omer Siton, founder of PerfuMate · Updated

At home you can capture a flower's scent three ways: soak the petals in strong alcohol (a tincture), steep them in a carrier oil (an infusion), or press them into odourless fat (enfleurage). All three work slowly and give a faint version of the flower. The rose and jasmine in commercial perfumes come from extracts made from tonnes of flowers in stills and extractors, usually alongside aroma chemicals, and that difference in scale is the honest place to start.

Can you make perfume from flowers at home, and what should you expect?

Yes, but expect a weak natural material rather than a finished perfume, because flowers hold very little scent by weight. The Botanical Adulterants Prevention Program's bulletin on damask rose oil puts it at about 4,000 kg of flowers for 1 kg of oil. At that distillation yield, 100 g of petals would hold about 25 mg of rose oil. A home tincture extracts differently from a still, but the order of magnitude explains why a jar of petals smells pleasant and faint, not like a bottle of perfume.

A home extract can add a real, slightly rough floral note to a formula, or be a small personal scent on its own. It cannot match an otto or an absolute, which carry the scent of thousands of kilograms of flowers, and it cannot capture flowers that give no extract at all (below). For a rose or jasmine perfume that smells like the flower, the practical route is a bought extract, a published accord, or both: how to make a rose perfume works one through.

How do you make a flower tincture in alcohol?

Pack petals into a jar, cover them with perfumer's alcohol, leave them in the dark for a week or two, strain, and repeat with fresh petals in the same alcohol until it smells strong enough.

  1. Pick well. Fully open, strongly scented flowers, picked dry and unsprayed. Use the petals only; stems and green parts add a leafy smell.
  2. Use the right alcohol. Perfumer's ethanol at about 95 percent, not vodka. Vodka is about 60 percent water and fresh petals bring water of their own; the more water, the less the alcohol dissolves and the sooner the jar turns cloudy. Which alcohol, and why not vodka.
  3. Fill and cover. Pack the jar loosely full, pour in alcohol to just cover the petals and close it tightly.
  4. Wait and shake. Keep it cool and dark, shake it once a day, and smell a strip after a few days.
  5. Strain and recharge. After a week or two, strain the petals out through a paper filter. If it is faint, add fresh petals to the same alcohol and repeat; each round adds a little more scent.
  6. Finish and label. Chill it for a day and filter it again to remove haze, then weigh it and label it: flower, date, "tincture in perfumer's alcohol".

Work away from flames, because perfumer's alcohol is flammable, and never heat a tincture. Expect the result to be mostly alcohol with a little scent in it, like the catalog's Orris Root Tincture, which it estimates at about 90 percent ethanol.

How do you make a flower-infused oil, or try enfleurage at home?

For an infused oil, steep dried petals in a stable carrier and strain; for enfleurage, press fresh petals into odourless solid fat, replace them again and again, then wash the scent out of the fat with alcohol. Both are ways to make perfume from flowers without alcohol in the jar.

A flower-infused oil

Fill a jar loosely with dried petals and cover them with Jojoba oil or Fractionated coconut oil (MCT), both slow to go rancid. Close it, keep it somewhere warm but not hot for a week or two and shake it daily; strain, and recharge with fresh petals if you want it stronger. Dried petals matter: fresh ones bring water, and water in oil is where mould and bacteria grow. Food-safety guidance on infused oils from the University of Maine makes the same point, that dried plant material lacks the moisture bacteria need. Throw away any infusion that grows mould or smells sour.

Enfleurage at home

Spread a layer of solid fat with no smell of its own on a glass dish, press freshly picked petals into it, cover it and keep it cool. Every day or two, lift off every petal and lay fresh ones; in the perfume industry the charge was renewed 30 to 40 times. Then stir the scented fat with perfumer's alcohol, chill it and filter: the alcohol takes the scent and leaves the fat behind, and you keep it like a tincture. Remove the old petals completely each time, since a forgotten petal is where mould starts, and discard the batch if it appears. The scented fat itself, the pomade, can also be used as it is, like a faint solid perfume, though like any fat it can go rancid. How fragrance is extracted explains how enfleurage worked in Grasse and why the trade abandoned it.

Which flowers are used in perfume, and which cannot be extracted?

The flowers perfumery extracts are the ones whose scent survives distillation or solvent extraction, above all rose, jasmine, tuberose, orange blossom, ylang ylang, mimosa, osmanthus, narcissus and lavender. Other famous scents, such as lily of the valley, lilac, freesia, peony and honeysuckle, have no natural extract in PerfuMate's catalog, and perfumers rebuild them from aroma chemicals.

FlowerWhat perfumers buyHow it is made
RoseRose Otto, Rose Absolute, Rose CO2 ExtractDistilled; solvent-extracted; CO2-extracted
JasmineJasmine Grandiflorum Absolute, Jasmine Sambac Absolute, the concretesSolvent-extracted; once by enfleurage
TuberoseTuberose Absolute, Tuberose ConcreteSolvent-extracted; once by enfleurage
Orange blossomNeroli Essential Oil, Orange Blossom Absolute, Orange Flower Water AbsoluteDistilled; solvent-extracted; recovered from the distillation water
Ylang ylangYlang Ylang Essential Oil Extra and the later gradesDistilled in fractions
Mimosa, cassie, osmanthusMimosa Absolute, Cassie Absolute, Osmanthus AbsoluteSolvent-extracted
Narcissus, jonquilNarcissus absolute, Jonquille AbsoluteSolvent-extracted
LavenderLavender Essential Oil, Lavender AbsoluteDistilled; solvent-extracted
VioletViolet Leaf Absolute, from the leaf, not the flowerSolvent-extracted

The rarer floral extracts in the catalog include Champaca Absolute, Frangipani Absolute, Tiare Absolute, Boronia Absolute, Carnation Absolute, Hyacinth Absolute, Linden Blossom Absolute and three lotus absolutes. Lily of the valley, lilac, freesia, peony, honeysuckle and the common gardenia (tiare is another species) appear in the catalog only as synthetic bases or not at all. Their scent is rebuilt, which is what PerfuMate's published accords do: Muguet, Lilac, Freesia and Gardenia, and among the community formulas Peony and Honeysuckle. Where the trade offers no extract of a flower, a jar of it at home is a long shot. The whole family is on floral materials.

Which perfume ingredients come from iris (orris) root?

Orris comes from the rhizome of the iris, not from its flower: perfumers buy it as orris butter, orris resinoid, an orris CO2 extract or a tincture, and use the irones that form in the dried root, or the synthetic molecules that smell like them, for the iris note.

Orris is expensive because it is slow. The irones form as compounds called iridals break down by oxidation in the root, and a 2022 study in Nature Communications puts the yield at about 30 to 70 mg of natural irone from 1 kg of fresh rhizome, over a production period of more than three years.

How do I use a homemade flower extract in a perfume?

As a material: weigh it into a formula like any other line, remember that it is mostly alcohol or oil, and treat it like a bought natural, which means it is not exempt from IFRA limits or allergens.

PerfuMate's catalog carries the floral extracts with their typical constituents, so a formula built from them is checked against IFRA line by line while you compose, at the strength you will bottle it. Start a formula, free.

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