How do you make perfume from flowers at home?
By Omer Siton, founder of PerfuMate · Updated
At home you can capture a flower's scent three ways: soak the petals in strong alcohol (a tincture), steep them in a carrier oil (an infusion), or press them into odourless fat (enfleurage). All three work slowly and give a faint version of the flower. The rose and jasmine in commercial perfumes come from extracts made from tonnes of flowers in stills and extractors, usually alongside aroma chemicals, and that difference in scale is the honest place to start.
Can you make perfume from flowers at home, and what should you expect?
Yes, but expect a weak natural material rather than a finished perfume, because flowers hold very little scent by weight. The Botanical Adulterants Prevention Program's bulletin on damask rose oil puts it at about 4,000 kg of flowers for 1 kg of oil. At that distillation yield, 100 g of petals would hold about 25 mg of rose oil. A home tincture extracts differently from a still, but the order of magnitude explains why a jar of petals smells pleasant and faint, not like a bottle of perfume.
A home extract can add a real, slightly rough floral note to a formula, or be a small personal scent on its own. It cannot match an otto or an absolute, which carry the scent of thousands of kilograms of flowers, and it cannot capture flowers that give no extract at all (below). For a rose or jasmine perfume that smells like the flower, the practical route is a bought extract, a published accord, or both: how to make a rose perfume works one through.
How do you make a flower tincture in alcohol?
Pack petals into a jar, cover them with perfumer's alcohol, leave them in the dark for a week or two, strain, and repeat with fresh petals in the same alcohol until it smells strong enough.
- Pick well. Fully open, strongly scented flowers, picked dry and unsprayed. Use the petals only; stems and green parts add a leafy smell.
- Use the right alcohol. Perfumer's ethanol at about 95 percent, not vodka. Vodka is about 60 percent water and fresh petals bring water of their own; the more water, the less the alcohol dissolves and the sooner the jar turns cloudy. Which alcohol, and why not vodka.
- Fill and cover. Pack the jar loosely full, pour in alcohol to just cover the petals and close it tightly.
- Wait and shake. Keep it cool and dark, shake it once a day, and smell a strip after a few days.
- Strain and recharge. After a week or two, strain the petals out through a paper filter. If it is faint, add fresh petals to the same alcohol and repeat; each round adds a little more scent.
- Finish and label. Chill it for a day and filter it again to remove haze, then weigh it and label it: flower, date, "tincture in perfumer's alcohol".
Work away from flames, because perfumer's alcohol is flammable, and never heat a tincture. Expect the result to be mostly alcohol with a little scent in it, like the catalog's Orris Root Tincture, which it estimates at about 90 percent ethanol.
How do you make a flower-infused oil, or try enfleurage at home?
For an infused oil, steep dried petals in a stable carrier and strain; for enfleurage, press fresh petals into odourless solid fat, replace them again and again, then wash the scent out of the fat with alcohol. Both are ways to make perfume from flowers without alcohol in the jar.
A flower-infused oil
Fill a jar loosely with dried petals and cover them with Jojoba oil or Fractionated coconut oil (MCT), both slow to go rancid. Close it, keep it somewhere warm but not hot for a week or two and shake it daily; strain, and recharge with fresh petals if you want it stronger. Dried petals matter: fresh ones bring water, and water in oil is where mould and bacteria grow. Food-safety guidance on infused oils from the University of Maine makes the same point, that dried plant material lacks the moisture bacteria need. Throw away any infusion that grows mould or smells sour.
Enfleurage at home
Spread a layer of solid fat with no smell of its own on a glass dish, press freshly picked petals into it, cover it and keep it cool. Every day or two, lift off every petal and lay fresh ones; in the perfume industry the charge was renewed 30 to 40 times. Then stir the scented fat with perfumer's alcohol, chill it and filter: the alcohol takes the scent and leaves the fat behind, and you keep it like a tincture. Remove the old petals completely each time, since a forgotten petal is where mould starts, and discard the batch if it appears. The scented fat itself, the pomade, can also be used as it is, like a faint solid perfume, though like any fat it can go rancid. How fragrance is extracted explains how enfleurage worked in Grasse and why the trade abandoned it.
Which flowers are used in perfume, and which cannot be extracted?
The flowers perfumery extracts are the ones whose scent survives distillation or solvent extraction, above all rose, jasmine, tuberose, orange blossom, ylang ylang, mimosa, osmanthus, narcissus and lavender. Other famous scents, such as lily of the valley, lilac, freesia, peony and honeysuckle, have no natural extract in PerfuMate's catalog, and perfumers rebuild them from aroma chemicals.
| Flower | What perfumers buy | How it is made |
|---|---|---|
| Rose | Rose Otto, Rose Absolute, Rose CO2 Extract | Distilled; solvent-extracted; CO2-extracted |
| Jasmine | Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute, Jasmine Sambac Absolute, the concretes | Solvent-extracted; once by enfleurage |
| Tuberose | Tuberose Absolute, Tuberose Concrete | Solvent-extracted; once by enfleurage |
| Orange blossom | Neroli Essential Oil, Orange Blossom Absolute, Orange Flower Water Absolute | Distilled; solvent-extracted; recovered from the distillation water |
| Ylang ylang | Ylang Ylang Essential Oil Extra and the later grades | Distilled in fractions |
| Mimosa, cassie, osmanthus | Mimosa Absolute, Cassie Absolute, Osmanthus Absolute | Solvent-extracted |
| Narcissus, jonquil | Narcissus absolute, Jonquille Absolute | Solvent-extracted |
| Lavender | Lavender Essential Oil, Lavender Absolute | Distilled; solvent-extracted |
| Violet | Violet Leaf Absolute, from the leaf, not the flower | Solvent-extracted |
The rarer floral extracts in the catalog include Champaca Absolute, Frangipani Absolute, Tiare Absolute, Boronia Absolute, Carnation Absolute, Hyacinth Absolute, Linden Blossom Absolute and three lotus absolutes. Lily of the valley, lilac, freesia, peony, honeysuckle and the common gardenia (tiare is another species) appear in the catalog only as synthetic bases or not at all. Their scent is rebuilt, which is what PerfuMate's published accords do: Muguet, Lilac, Freesia and Gardenia, and among the community formulas Peony and Honeysuckle. Where the trade offers no extract of a flower, a jar of it at home is a long shot. The whole family is on floral materials.
Which perfume ingredients come from iris (orris) root?
Orris comes from the rhizome of the iris, not from its flower: perfumers buy it as orris butter, orris resinoid, an orris CO2 extract or a tincture, and use the irones that form in the dried root, or the synthetic molecules that smell like them, for the iris note.
- Orris Butter is the steam-distilled oil of the rhizome, waxy and solid at room temperature: ISO's vocabulary of aromatic natural raw materials gives "essential oil of orris (commonly named iris butter)" as its example of a steam-distilled oil. The catalog estimates it at about 75 percent myristic acid and 10 percent alpha-irone, and lists an Iris germanica grade beside the classic Iris pallida.
- Orris Resinoid is a solvent extract, heavier and rootier, which the catalog calls the fixative-grade orris, used at 0.5 to 5 percent.
- Orris Root CO2 Extract is pourable where the butter is solid; the catalog notes grades from about 1 to 15 percent irones, so check the assay before you dose.
- Orris Root Tincture is dried rhizome macerated in ethanol, quiet and powdery.
- The molecules: Alpha-Irone, which the catalog calls the signature molecule of orris root, and methyl ionones such as Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, the workhorse of iris and violet bases. PerfuMate's Iris Accord is built on them.
Orris is expensive because it is slow. The irones form as compounds called iridals break down by oxidation in the root, and a 2022 study in Nature Communications puts the yield at about 30 to 70 mg of natural irone from 1 kg of fresh rhizome, over a production period of more than three years.
How do I use a homemade flower extract in a perfume?
As a material: weigh it into a formula like any other line, remember that it is mostly alcohol or oil, and treat it like a bought natural, which means it is not exempt from IFRA limits or allergens.
- Weigh it and write it down. A petal tincture adds little aromatic material per gram and behaves like a weak dilution; record it as a line with its solvent.
- Smell it before you rely on it, on a strip at intervals over a day, as you would any new material, and try a finished perfume on a small spot of skin before wearing it widely.
- Natural is not unrestricted. IFRA limits molecules, and flowers are full of them: by the catalog's typical composition, rose otto can make up at most 0.55 percent of a finished perfume because of its methyl eugenol, and jasmine grandiflorum absolute has a Category 4 limit of its own, 0.6 percent. Nobody has analysed your tincture, so the IFRA calculator can only check it against the nearest catalog row, an estimate at best.
- Keep it for yourself. A perfume you sell needs materials whose composition is documented, for the IFRA check and the allergen declaration on the label; a home extract comes with neither. How to label a perfume for sale.
PerfuMate's catalog carries the floral extracts with their typical constituents, so a formula built from them is checked against IFRA line by line while you compose, at the strength you will bottle it. Start a formula, free.
Sources:
- ABC Botanical Adulterants Prevention Program: Rose (Rosa x damascena) essential oil bulletin, June 2024 (yield, rose water)
- University of Maine Cooperative Extension: Bulletin 4385, Safe homemade flavored and infused oils
- Cinquième Sens, Olfathèque: Enfleurage
- Kliszcz et al., Molecules 2021: Fleeting beauty: the world of plant fragrances and their application
- ISO 9235:2021: Aromatic natural raw materials, vocabulary (preview)
- Chen et al., Nature Communications 2022: Total enzymatic synthesis of cis-alpha-irone
- IFRA: IFRA Standards Library (51st Amendment)