学习调香与成为调香师
作者：Omer Siton，PerfuMate 创始人 · 更新于
Perfumery is learnt by smelling, weighing and writing down, at home or at a school, and a career as a perfumer usually adds a science degree and years of training. Each question gets a short answer here and a link to the page that answers it in full.
Is it hard to make perfume?
Making one is not; making a good one of your own takes practice. With a formula written in grams and a 0.01 g scale the work is weighing and arithmetic, while learning the materials and waiting weeks between versions take the time. How to learn perfumery.
Is perfume making a good hobby, and is it an art?
It suits people who like to make things slowly and precisely: five to ten materials, a scale and a notebook are enough, and the cost grows with the number of trials. And yes, it is an art practised with science; the American Society of Perfumers describes perfumery as a craft that combines the two. How to learn perfumery.
How can I learn perfumery on my own?
Train your nose on a small set of materials, read each one on strips over time, build classic accords, weigh a first formula published in grams with its IFRA check, and then revise it one change at a time. The practice material is free: the accords on /accords, the catalog and the calculators. How to learn perfumery sets out a first three months.
Which books are worth reading to learn perfumery?
Among the titles checked for this site: Perfumery: Practice and Principles (Calkin and Jellinek), The Chemistry of Fragrances (edited by Charles S. Sell), Scent and Chemistry (Ohloff, Pickenhagen, Kraft and Grau) and Arctander's two material references; Piesse's The Art of Perfumery (1857) is free and legal to download. No ranking: each serves a different purpose. Which books are worth reading.
Which perfumery courses and schools are there, online or in person?
For a career, degree-level schools such as ISIPCA in Versailles, the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and the École Supérieure du Parfum; for learning, short courses and workshops, in person or online, from ISIPCA, the Grasse Institute, Cinquième Sens or the Institute for Art and Olfaction; and the IFEAT Academy's online diploma. Perfumery courses, and how to choose one.
Where can I take a perfume-making class near me?
PerfuMate cannot list local classes, but it can tell you what to ask before you book: what you will make, whether you leave with the formula in grams, which materials are used, who teaches and how many students there are, whether the take-home bottle is made safely, and what comes next. What to ask before booking a class.
What is a perfumer (a "nose"), and what do perfumers do?
A perfumer designs fragrance formulas, concentrates of dozens or hundreds of materials composed to a brief, which companies then put into fine fragrances, cosmetics and household products. In industry they work at the fragrance houses that make the concentrates, and IFRA counts fewer than a thousand fully qualified perfumers worldwide. What a perfumer does.
What is the difference between a perfumer and a flavorist?
A perfumer composes smells for things you wear or use; a flavorist composes flavors for food, drink and medicines. The crafts share chemistry but follow different rules, food law for flavors and cosmetics law with the IFRA Standards for perfume, and certified flavorists in the Society of Flavor Chemists serve a seven-year apprenticeship. Perfumer vs flavorist.
如何成为调香师？
By one of four routes: a perfumery school, a fragrance house's own trainee school, a job in the industry first, or independent practice under your own name. Employers and advanced programmes mostly ask for a degree, often in a science. How to become a perfumer describes each with examples.
What should you study to become a perfumer?
A science first, usually chemistry or a related subject, then perfumery at a school or in a trainee program, and your nose every day. Formulation arithmetic, the IFRA Standards and English, the working language of many programmes, complete the list. What to study.
Can you become a perfumer without a degree?
Not easily as an employee: the trainee schemes and most of the schools checked for this site ask for a degree first, usually a bachelor's and mostly in a science, and the École Supérieure du Parfum's programme is itself a five-year degree. A laboratory job in the industry can start from vocational training, and independent work under your own name needs no diploma, only the skills and the duties of anyone selling a cosmetic. Without a degree.
How long does it take, and how hard is it, to become a perfumer?
Years: IFRA says fully qualified perfumers train for seven to ten. Formal programmes run from 18 months to five years, places are few, and selection includes smelling and creativity tests. How long it takes.
How much do perfumers make?
No reliable public figure could be verified: the fragrance houses where industry perfumers work do not publish pay, and online salary numbers are estimates. In-house schools hire their trainees, schools charge tuition, and an independent perfumer earns what their own sales earn. How much perfumers make.