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How long should perfume macerate?

By Omer Siton, founder of PerfuMate · Updated

When will my perfume be ready?

Count from the day the batch is made at its strength: about 60 days up to 15%, 90 up to 25% and 120 above that, with checks on day 2, day 7 and halfway.

The same schedule as the maceration journal in the app. Enter the strength of the finished perfume, not of the concentrate.

The journal in PerfuMate keeps these dates for every batch you log, from the strength it was actually made at, and on Android reminds you on the morning of each check. Open the maceration journal.

About two months for an eau de toilette, three for an eau de parfum and four for an extrait, counted from the day the batch is mixed at its final strength. That is the schedule PerfuMate's maceration journal works to, not a rule: no standard fixes a maceration time, and a blotter, not the calendar, tells you when a perfume is ready. A perfume oil or a solid perfume needs only a week or two.

Why does a stronger perfume need longer?

Because more of it is still settling. In the first days the heavier materials finish dissolving and the alcohol stops smelling raw; over the following weeks a few materials keep reacting with each other, which is what makes a blend read rounder. A stronger perfume holds more of those materials, so it takes longer to settle. What changes while a perfume rests goes through each of these.

What you madeStrengthRest
Eau de cologne, eau de toiletteup to 15%60 days
Eau de parfum, lighter extraitover 15%, up to 25%90 days
Stronger extraitover 25%120 days

What does maceration do to a perfume?

Maceration is the rest a perfume takes after the concentrate and alcohol are mixed: the heavier materials finish dissolving, the raw smell of fresh alcohol fades, and a few slow reactions round the blend. It changes a formula's texture, not its structure.

Three things happen at three speeds. Resins, absolutes and crystals dissolve over the first days. The alcohol's sharp edge settles as the mixture becomes one liquid. And for weeks, some materials keep reacting: aldehydes with the alcohol, some esters forming or exchanging, citrus terpenes with the air in the bottle (what changes while a perfume rests). The rest ends, in a factory as at home, with chilling and filtering, which removes the waxes that come out of solution in the cold. The word has a second meaning in perfumery, an old way of extracting flowers by soaking them in warm fat or oil, which has nothing to do with resting a finished perfume (how fragrance is extracted).

Is perfume maceration real, and is it necessary?

It is real: a fresh blend smells noticeably different after a week, because it is still dissolving and settling. It is not necessary in the sense of a safety step or a rule: it rounds a formula but never rescues one, and practice varies widely, from a maceration step of 15 to 90 minutes in the typical factory batch process, as a patent application from Procter and Gamble describes it, to the two to four months PerfuMate's schedule gives a home batch (US 2016/0333290 A1).

For a home maker the rest earns its time twice over: the first week removes the raw alcohol that hides the formula, and the weeks after let a strip tell you which faults are texture and which are ratios. Can you use a perfume while it macerates? Yes: take what you need and close the bottle at once, because every opening lets alcohol and top notes escape.

A bought perfume does not need macerating at home: it has normally been rested, chilled and filtered by its maker before filling. Spraying some out, or leaving it uncapped, to "macerate" it only lets the most volatile part escape and starts the slow oxidation that ages a perfume (how a perfume ages).

Perfume maceration vs maturation: what is the difference?

The words are used loosely. In one common distinction, which the perfume publisher Frédéric Malle draws in a passage quoted on Musings of a Muse, maturation is aging the concentrate before it is mixed with alcohol and maceration is aging the finished solution. Others use the two words for the same thing, so check which one a recipe means.

Some perfumers let the concentrate stand before diluting it; others dilute at once and rest only the finished perfume. PerfuMate's journal times the second, counted from the day the batch is made at its strength, because that is the rest the schedule above describes.

How do I macerate a perfume at home, step by step?

  1. Mix it at its final strength in a clean, dry glass bottle that it nearly fills: the air above the liquid is what ages it.
  2. Cap it tightly and label it with the formula, the strength and the date. The rest counts from that date.
  3. Store it upright, cool and dark, in a cupboard away from sun, radiators and the bathroom.
  4. Follow the four checks below: shake and air it on day two, smell a strip on day seven and again at the halfway point, and chill and filter it on the last day.
  5. Bottle it into small, full bottles, and keep one sealed as a reference for later (how to tell if it has changed).

What do I do while it rests?

  1. Day 2: shake and aerate. Open the bottle for a minute, shake it well and put it back somewhere cool and dark.
  2. Day 7: the first blotter. Dip a strip and smell it after 30 seconds, 10 minutes and an hour. By now the raw alcohol has gone, so this is the first honest reading of the formula.
  3. Halfway: the mid-rest check. The strip should feel rounder and more unified than the day-seven one.
  4. The last day: chill and filter. Chill the bottle at about 4 degrees Celsius for 24 hours, then filter out any haze and bottle it. Why a perfume turns cloudy, and how to filter it.

Between checks, keep it cool, dark and sealed. Heat and light speed up the wrong reactions, and an open bottle loses its top notes.

Should you macerate perfume with the cap on or off?

On, tightly closed, for the whole rest. An open bottle loses alcohol and the lightest top notes first, so what remains is stronger and flatter than what you made, and ethanol takes up water from the air, which can cloud the blend later.

The only time PerfuMate's journal opens the bottle is a minute on day two, to shake and air it; the rest of the time it stays sealed. A recipe that leaves the cap off for days is spending your top notes.

Can I macerate perfume in the fridge or freezer, and what temperature is best?

Rest it at a steady, cool room temperature in the dark, keep the fridge for the last day, and leave the freezer out: no standard sets a best temperature, but cold slows the changes you are waiting for, and warmth speeds up the ones you do not want.

How do I know it is ready?

When the strips stop changing. Keep the day-seven strip, or a note of what it smelled like, and compare each later strip against it. If the opening is smoother and the materials no longer read separately, the rest is doing its job. If the halfway strip complains about the same thing the day-seven strip did, a material that dominates or a base that has gone by the next morning, more time will not fix it: that is a change to the formula. How to test a perfume formula goes further.

Can I make it faster?

Not reliably. Shaking in the first days helps resins and crystals dissolve, but the slow changes that round a perfume run at their own pace, and warming the bottle speeds up the reactions you do not want. What does help is a fixed start: PerfuMate's journal counts from the day a batch is made at its strength, so every check falls on a real date.

What machines are used to blend and age perfume, and do aging machines work?

In the classic factory batch process, perfume is mixed in tanks, rested briefly, chilled to about 0 degrees Celsius and filtered before filling, and one manufacturer described a continuous version, mixed in line, in a patent application; at home, the essential instrument is a scale reading 0.01 g, with glass, pipettes, a fridge and a paper filter (US 2016/0333290 A1). Before you trust the claims for an ultrasonic "aging" or "maceration" machine, ask its seller for a test on finished perfume.

What such a machine can do is agitate the liquid, and often warm it. Agitation helps resins and crystals dissolve, which a few shakes in the first days also do; warmth speeds up the reactions you do not want. Neither replaces the test that matters: if the day-seven strip and the halfway strip complain about the same thing, no machine will fix it, because the fault is in the formula. A magnetic stirrer is the one piece of lab equipment that earns its place for a home maker who works with many crystals, because it dissolves them without heat.

Does a perfume oil need maceration?

Less of it. There is no alcohol to settle, and a week or two, sealed and in the dark, is usually enough for the materials to become one smell; shake it a few times meanwhile. Oils rarely need chilling and filtering. How to make perfume oil and how to make solid perfume cover both.

PerfuMate's maceration journal dates every batch you log from the strength it was actually made at, shows the next check and the day it is ready, and on Android reminds you on the morning of each check. Open the maceration journal, or start a formula, free.